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At Bethlehem Township’s Kingfish, fish is king, and fish served here is fit for a king.

That’s no surprise considering that co-owners Randy and Cheryl Beck also own the popular Beck’s Land & Sea House in Bushkill Township. Kingfish opened about two weeks ago, replacing The Villa, which closed in May.

Seafood has a special lure, and co-owner and executive chef Cale Beck, the Becks’ son, knows how to make the best out of what’s already a good thing. My dinner at Kingfish, less than a week after its opening, was excellent.

The Becks have transformed the interior with fresh paint, window coverings and granite tables. Dark orange walls with inset panels in darker orange and brown set a tone of casual elegance, underscored by graceful ceiling molding and Art Deco lights suspended from ceiling medallions. Window valances with large polka dots coordinate with upholstered chair seats in coordinating stripes.

Appropriately labeled “American,” the melting pot fare includes coconut shrimp with Caribbean island dipping sauce, Tuscan clam chowder and chilled Asian noodle salad. Along with standard fish and seafood selections, Kingfish features sushi and a raw bar.

In a nod to landlubbers, the innovative menu offers a few meat selections and also artisan pizza —the tempting King Spoleta, for example, topped with hot sopressata marmalade, roasted mushrooms, jalapeno and fresh mozzarella.

Nibbling at the restaurant’s charcuterie plate ($14) as a shared start to dinner here was a wise choice. The assortment of thinly sliced salami, sopressata and chorizo was well-paired with Manchego, smoked Gouda and blue cheeses. Spears of steamed asparagus along with glazed pecans, roasted red pepper and crisped toast added a bounty of flavor-enhancing counterpoint options.

Flaky and moist Asian-inspired Shanghai swordfish ($24) topped a bowl of creamy peanut noodles that added gentle heat to the fish. A sprinkling of sesame seeds with bok choy, pickled carrot, bell peppers, Thai basil and sweet miso added more Asian notes to this combination.

Especially stellar was Jail Island salmon ($21) with a soy mustard glaze that made this fish shine with glorious bronzed flavor. Fresh ginger and chilies added depth to the so-buttery salmon, served with steamed rice and sugar snap peas.

Applewood smoked bacon and braised cippolini onions accented tender cast-iron-roasted Brussels sprouts ($5), halved and showing their finely formed layers.

Mango cake ($8) was cloud of subtle tropical flavor: layers of light cake and mango mousse atop a thick graham cracker crust, plated in a thick mango puree. Light and luscious.

Kingfish is bound to continue the success of Beck’s Land & Sea House. It takes only one visit to know why.

Dinner for two, including tax and tip but no alcoholic beverages, totaled $100.

Susan Gottshall is a freelance restaurant reviewer for Go Guide. Gottshall attempts to remain anonymous during restaurant visits. All meals are paid for by The Morning Call.

KINGFISH: AMERICAN BISTRO AND WINE BAR

*Hours: 4-9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 4-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 3-8 p.m. Sunday.

*Prices: Appetizers: $7-$14; entrees: $15-$35

*Credit cards: Major cards accepted.

*Accessibility: Premises and restrooms wheelchair accessible.

*Location: In suburban area on Freemansburg Ave. between 12th and 13th streets across from Feasta Pizza. Parking in lot.

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